One of the greatest joys when travelling is stumbling upon an unexpected attraction. The Crossbones Graveyard, located in London’s Southwark neighbourhood, is an unassuming patch of land that has been “brought to life” by dedicated volunteers who are passionate about its backstory. I discovered it when walking back to my hotel from the ever so popular Borough Market, and it was a fascinating find.
I barely glanced at the spot, but then the sign caught my eye from across the street. As I walked to the other side, a woman at the entrance asked me if I knew about the Crossbones Graveyard. Upon learning that I did not, she led me through the gate and handed me a laminated sheet of paper outlining the history of the site.
The ‘Winchester Geese’
During medieval times, the area surrounding the graveyard was a lawless and poverty-ridden section of London. Over the years, thousands of sex workers lived and died here. The Bishop of Winchester presided over the area and provided the women with some order of protection and they became known as the “Winchester Geese.’ Not allowed a Christian burial, upon their death, these women (and their children) ended up in the Single Women’s churchyard (referred to as the Cross Bones). Later, paupers and other ‘ne’er-do-wells’ were also buried here.
Overcrowded Dead
The graveyard was closed in the 1850s due to sanitation concerns. Later excavation revealed there were several thousand buried here – stacked one upon the other. During the 20th Century, the site was briefly used as fairgrounds (of all things) and then for light industrial shops. The graveyard seemed to have been forgotten.
The Southwark Mysteries
Fast forward to 1996, poet and playwright, John Constable, published a cycle of poems (The Southwark Mysteries) based on a vision he had involving a goose who led him on a hallucinatory journey through Southwark and made reference to the Crossbones Graveyard. He apparently didn’t know about the site or its history at the time.
Constable later heard that the Museum of London was speaking out against planning documents for the extension of the Jubilee underground line because it threatened to disturb the medieval burials at the Crossbones. Curious, he visited the site and recognized it from his vision.
Since then, Constable, Katy Nicolls, and other friends of the graveyard have worked to reclaim and transform the site as a memorial to the ‘outcast dead.’
Crossbones Graveyard: A Work in Progress
Today, the Friends of Crossbones are working in collaboration with the Bankside Open Spaces Trust (BOST) to transform this space into a garden of remembrance. Amidst intense surrounding development, they are looking to secure the long-term protection of the area, which you can find more about on their website.
The most intriguing aspect of the garden is a section of the site’s fence that displays a colourful patchwork of ribbons, flowers, and other tokens of remembrance that have been assembled over the years as part of ritual events reclaiming the yards as a sacred site. Attendees bring items in memory of lost loved ones and receive a ribbon inscribed with the name of one of the Crossbones dead (retrieved from municipal archives) to tie to the shrine.
I’m curious to see what becomes of the gardens and how the Crossbones Graveyard will integrate with this gentrifying region of London. The loving reclamation of the resting spot of those who were deemed unworthy is a testament to the evolution of humankind.
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It’s so interesting that the past keeps being uncovered for us to Learn so much about life then especially London it’s
Never to far below the surface
. I’ve just been reading a book called Mudlarking , all
About what can be found in
The Mud when the tide of the Thames goes out . It’s something that’s gone on for centuries, a way the poor might find a few valuables to sell
It is fascinating. The past is always with us. Sounds like an interesting book. Thanks for mentioning it.
What an interesting find and story. I agree with everyone else. I love it when you discover something new and non-mainstream. Like you, I also hope the project evolves and goes further to preserve this unique history and the people who where laid to rest there.
I’m betting there are hundreds of hidden gems in London like this. That’s why it’s one of the places I never tire of visiting.
What an interesting thing to stumble across. I love when things like that happen on travels. It’s also fascinating that it is a grassroots group of people working to preserve the Crossbones Graveyard history.
I know, they’ve done an incredible job of reclaiming the site. I can’t wait to see how it develops further.
Wow Deb this was a fascinating read! What a cool discovery. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, Andrea. It’s especially cool when you just stumble upon something like this. I bet there are hundreds of sights like this in London.