Hanoi marked the first stop on our April Islandhopping bike, boat, and kayaking tour of Vietnam. Our drive from the airport to our hotel in the Old Quarter introduced us to a city teeming with activity and overrun with a good portion of the country’s 40 million motorbikes.
Don’t look both ways before crossing the street
The traffic in Hanoi is remarkable for its volume. This applies both in terms of the vast number motorbikes on the road as well as the sound of engines revving and horns honking non-stop. For me, the city’s frenetic pace alternated between exhilarating and overwhelming.
Crossing the street is particularly harrowing until you sort out that drivers will move around or stop as you cross in front of them – they are watching for you. Crossing is an act of faith; you just go and trust you will not get hit. Waiting for traffic to clear is futile. It will not. There are no strict street regulations, no lanes, and traffic lights are just a mild suggestion. For a Canadian pedestrian who waits for the light to change at a corner even when there is no traffic, this is a big cultural shift. Crossing beside a local at first is a good way to get used to it.
Enterprise is everywhere
Back 1,000 years ago, Hanoi was the place to buy cotton, jewellery, herbs, and silk. Between street vendors crouched on side streets cooking over single steaming pots to tiny storefronts selling coffee or knock-off designer brands, today the people of Hanoi make their way any way they can.
We had a lovely chat with new coffee shop owner Hoang Khang and his cousin over a delicious iced coffee. Hoang is from a remote village and considers himself lucky to have graduated from university, making his way to Hanoi shortly after. He said not many young people leave his village. This is Hoang’s second business. He also runs the successful Hanoi Vespa Tours.
Fresh produce is in abundance in Hanoi with storefronts like this one dotting every block.
The oasis of Hoan Kiem Lake
Escaping the bustle of Hanoi while in the Old Quarter is not easy, but there is one place everyone goes to grab a bit of peace – Hoan Kiem Lake.
At midday it’s filled with tourists and locals alike enjoying an ice cream or a stroll along the paved path that circles the lake.
Early morning is the best time to take in Hoan Kiem. On a 7:00 a.m. run, Steve and I enjoyed seeing elders practicing tai chi, and of all things, a ballroom dancing class. The distance around the lake is roughly only about 2 kilometres so if you’re going for a run, be prepared to do a few loops.
Golden Lotus Luxury Hotel
Our tour accommodations included two nights at this Old Quarter hotel. They were two separate nights as we hit Hanoi on two occasions during our tour.
The hotel is located right in the heart of the Old Quarter and just a short walk from the beautiful Hoan Kiem Lake area. The rooms were small and clean and the service was very attentive. On our first stay we had an interior room without a window. I don’t think I’ve ever stayed in a hotel room without a window and gee, it sure makes a difference. The second room we had did have a window and even though it faced a brick wall, it felt much better than the first room. Natural light makes a huge difference.
The hotel breakfast had lots of variety and included traditional and Western food items. The hotel’s best feature (aside from its location) is its rooftop pool with a great view, decent wi-fi and comfortable seating. Great place to do a bit of work if you have to.
Dinh Lang Thuy Ta Cafe
Our group enjoyed a set dinner menu at this traditional Vietnamese restaurant. Its best quality is that it is positioned right next to Hoan Kiem lake, which is quite pretty at night. The restaurant also features live traditional Vietnamese music, which was great, but a bit loud if you’re trying to talk with dinner companions. The food was good, but perhaps not the most outstanding cuisine we had on the trip. They got an A+ for presentation, though.
Next stop: The serene and picturesque Ha Long Bay
This is the second post in a series on an IslandHopping tour we took through Vietnam. Visit the first post to go back to the start of it all.
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September 2, 2012 I can’t wait to go to Vietnam! My boyfriend is Vietnamese and we were just tnakilg about it recently but I think our next trip will be Vietnam, Cambodia, Singapore and the Phillipines since we didn’t get to visit those countries during our last Asia trip.
I remember cycling into Hanoi a few years ago. It took me so long to cross the road or turn because there were SO many motorbikes! And then you’d get the ones that were going the wrong way, so that adds to the fun. I figured, the best thing to do is just close your eyes, go and hope for the best. Great post about Hanoi 🙂
Laura, I cannot imagine cycling in Hanoi. You are brave! I’m following along on your cycle from Bangkok to India. Very adventurous!
Very nice photo.. just came back from my Hoi An trip yesterday. Hoi An is a very nice place, can coseidnr for your next trip. Really enjoy the food, shopping and sightseeing in Hoi An & Hue…thanks for sharing your Hanoi trip. Angeline Woon
Glad you enjoyed it. We did too. Vietnam is a fantastic trip.
[…] complete contrast to our first stop in bustling Hanoi, Ha Long Bay offered a serene landscape of soaring limestone pillars, calm waters, fascinating […]