Hanoi marked the first stop on our April Islandhopping bike, boat, and kayaking tour of Vietnam. Our drive from the airport to our hotel in the Old Quarter introduced us to a city teeming with activity and overrun with a good portion of the country’s 40 million motorbikes.

Don’t look both ways before crossing the street

The traffic in Hanoi is remarkable for its volume. This applies both in terms of the vast number motorbikes on the road as well as the sound of engines revving and horns honking non-stop. For me, the city’s frenetic pace alternated between exhilarating and overwhelming.

Crossing the street is particularly harrowing until you sort out that drivers will move around or stop as you cross in front of them – they are watching for you. Crossing is an act of faith; you just go and trust you will not get hit. Waiting for traffic to clear is futile. It will not. There are no strict street regulations, no lanes, and traffic lights are just a mild suggestion. For a Canadian pedestrian who waits for the light to change at a corner even when there is no traffic, this is a big cultural shift. Crossing beside a local at first is a good way to get used to it.

Vietnam: Hectic Hanoi

Enterprise is everywhere

Back 1,000 years ago, Hanoi was the place to buy cotton, jewellery, herbs, and silk. Between street vendors crouched on side streets cooking over single steaming pots to tiny storefronts selling coffee or knock-off designer brands, today the people of Hanoi make their way any way they can.

We had a lovely chat with new coffee shop owner Hoang Khang and his cousin over a delicious iced coffee. Hoang is from a remote village and considers himself lucky to have graduated from university, making his way to Hanoi shortly after. He said not many young people leave his village. This is Hoang’s second business. He also runs the successful Hanoi Vespa Tours.

Vietnam: Hectic Hanoi

Fresh produce is in abundance in Hanoi with storefronts like this one dotting every block.

Vietnam: Hectic Hanoi

The oasis of Hoan Kiem Lake

Escaping the bustle of Hanoi while in the Old Quarter is not easy, but there is one place everyone goes to grab a bit of peace – Hoan Kiem Lake.

At midday it’s filled with tourists and locals alike enjoying an ice cream or a stroll along the paved path that circles the lake.

Vietnam: Hectic Hanoi

Early morning is the best time to take in Hoan Kiem. On a 7:00 a.m. run, Steve and I enjoyed seeing elders practicing tai chi, and of all things, a ballroom dancing class. The distance around the lake is roughly only about 2 kilometres so if you’re going for a run, be prepared to do a few loops.

Vietnam: Hectic Hanoi

Golden Lotus Luxury Hotel

Our tour accommodations included two nights at this Old Quarter hotel. They were two separate nights as we hit Hanoi on two occasions during our tour.

The hotel is located right in the heart of the Old Quarter and just a short walk from the beautiful Hoan Kiem Lake area. The rooms were small and clean and the service was very attentive. On our first stay we had an interior room without a window. I don’t think I’ve ever stayed in a hotel room without a window and gee, it sure makes a difference. The second room we had did have a window and even though it faced a brick wall, it felt much better than the first room. Natural light makes a huge difference.

The hotel breakfast had lots of variety and included traditional and Western food items. The hotel’s best feature (aside from its location) is its rooftop pool with a great view, decent wi-fi and comfortable seating. Great place to do a bit of work if you have to.

Vietnam: Hectic Hanoi

Dinh Lang Thuy Ta Cafe

Our group enjoyed a set dinner menu at this traditional Vietnamese restaurant. Its best quality is that it is positioned right next to Hoan Kiem lake, which is quite pretty at night. The restaurant also features live traditional Vietnamese music, which was great, but a bit loud if you’re trying to talk with dinner companions. The food was good, but perhaps not the most outstanding cuisine we had on the trip. They got an A+ for presentation, though.

Vietnam: Hectic Hanoi

Vietnam: Hectic Hanoi

Next stop: The serene and picturesque Ha Long Bay

This is the second post in a series on an IslandHopping tour we took through Vietnam. Visit the first post to go back to the start of it all.

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