Visiting Churchill, Manitoba during the summer months comes with a couple of advantages. One is that the northern town is relatively warm from June to September. The other is that wildlife lovers can encounter both polar bears and beluga whales at this time of year, making it a singularly magical experience. Visitors to Churchill have the unique opportunity to learn about these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat.
Growing up in the southern Manitoba city of Winnipeg, I knew from a young age that polar bears lived in my province. But, given that Churchill sits about 1,000 kilometres north of The Peg, those bears might as well have lived in another country.
With no road access to the “Polar Bear Capital of the World,” getting there takes either a two-day train journey or a 2.5-hour flight. The trip isn’t inexpensive and that coupled with a preference to travel to warmer climes when possible means that the vast majority of Manitobans never make the trek. Now that I’ve finally visited, I see the huge missed opportunity of discounting Churchill as a vacation spot.
To see bears and belugas, visit Churchill in summer
About 10,000 tourists arrive in Churchill in the fall months to see polar bears when they congregate near Hudson Bay waiting for the sea ice to form. During the summer, the bears are harder to come across, but they’re still around. And, visiting in July or August has the added opportunity of encountering the thousands of beluga whales that migrate into the Churchill River in summer to give birth and hang out in the comparatively warmer water. It seems like the ideal time to visit.
Safety first – Visiting the land of polar bears
From the moment visitors step off the train or plane in Churchill, they are greeted with messaging about polar bear safety. It works! I was on the lookout for the white furry beasts around every corner as our tour operator’s bus rambled towards our accommodations. Such was not the case, but there are rules and precautions that residents and visitors alike must follow to live in peace with large wild animals nearby:
Continuous Patrolling
Conservation officers continually patrol the town and outskirts for bears. If they spot one, the officers will endeavour to scare the bear away from town using noisy shotgun cracker shells. Mobile signs mark the areas where bears have been seen to alert the public.
Garbage Control
The town uses bear-proof garbage and recycling containers with frequent pickup to avoid attracting the animals. Waste is managed inside a large building (rather than an outdoor landfill) on the outskirts of town.
Open-door Policy
Virtually everyone leaves their home and vehicle doors unlocked so that if someone does encounter a bear, they can quickly seek safety. When I ventured out for walks around town, I was vigilant about locating my escape options.
Polar Bear Holding Facility
If a bear refuses to move along or repeatedly comes back into town despite the efforts of conservation officers, it may mean a stay in the Polar Bear Holding Facility. Here, bears are held for up to 30 days without food (so as not to make it an attractive destination) and then airlifted away from town or onto the sea ice depending on the season. The facility has a heated room for cubs. If the little ones are orphaned, they might end up at Assiniboine Park Zoo in Winnipeg, which has a polar bear conservation program.
No impromptu hikes outside of town
As a tourist, it’s inadvisable to wander beyond the perimeter of town on foot without a guide carrying a firearm.
Seeing our first wild polar bear
I’ve seen polar bears before at our city’s zoo. In fact, many international visitors to Churchill start their trip by visiting the zoo’s Journey to Churchill exhibit, which offers an interactive experience with the habitat and northern animal species of the region. The underwater viewing tunnels give visitors an enthralling view of polar bears and seals swimming overhead (they are in separate enclosures–otherwise, that would be a very different exposure to animal behaviour).
It’s different seeing an animal in the wild — especially one as large as a polar bear. Adult males weigh in at about 350 – 600 kilograms and can reach three meters in height. We were lucky enough to see four bears during our trip. Two were swimming in Hudson Bay, and the others were on the shore. We viewed the bears from the safety of our tour boat. Even though we gave the bear its distance, the absence of any other sound allowed us to hear him breathing as his large paws propelled him through the water. It was awe-inspiring—nothing but blue sea and sky punctuated by the image of this huge white bear making its way.
The polar bear’s scientific name is Ursus maritimus (sea bear), and they are powerful swimmers. Their front paws act as paddles, and the back ones are like rudders. They can swim for days at a time with short breaks in between. Of course, even polar bears have limits, and with diminishing sea ice due to climate change, bears have to swim farther and farther, putting them at risk.
Today, there are about 900 polar bears in the western Hudson Bay area. Experts say this population is one of the healthiest in the world despite diminishing sea ice. Because of the number of islands on the water, this region’s bears can move from place to place while hunting even when sea ice is spotty.
These animals are built for endurance. Mama polar bears usually give birth to two to three cubs in December. Moms protect and provide for the little ones in a snowy den for four to eight months, and during that time, the moms don’t eat or drink — all of their resources go to the cubs. That’s some serious parenting commitment.
Exhibit at the Churchill Visitor Centre
If you’re not able to visit Churchill, you can spy on them via Polar Bear International’s live cam beginning in late October. The conservation organization with an outpost in Churchill is a rich repository of bear facts and conservation information. (They also have a beluga cam)
Video Highlights of our encounters with bears and belugas:
Beluga whales galore
Unlike Churchill’s polar bears, the region’s beluga whale population takes virtually no effort to spot. For most of the year, belugas live in areas of dense sea ice. As summer approaches, about 4,000 of them migrate to the Churchill River to give birth and feed (57,000 inhabit the western Hudson Bay coast). Belugas gestate for 14 months, and calves are born in August. The baby whales are grey and turn lighter to white as they age.
We saw belugas from a distance every day of our trip, which was super special. But, we had the thrill of a lifetime when we had the opportunity to kayak and aquaglide in the Churchill River. These adorable mammals are inquisitive and playful. When kayaking, it’s common for a beluga to swim behind you while nudging the craft with its nose. They approach without coaxing (although, our guide said they seem to be attracted to the higher pitch of the female voice). It’s an unreal experience.
Equally thrilling was the aquagliding tour we took. We had no clue what aquagliding was when he heard it was an option. It involves a Kodiak boat slowly pulling a large dense foam platform behind it while participants sit or lie flat to peer into the water below. You can use a snorkel and mask to stick your head below water if you like.
I don’t think it’s hyperbole to say that aquagliding is the greatest invention ever! Beluga whales trailed behind us, popped their heads up unexpectedly (making me squeal like a 6-year-old), and generally cruised alongside us the entire way. I can’t remember the last time I smiled and laughed as much.
It warrants mentioning that the tour operators in Churchill do not entice the whales in any way. It’s up to the whales to engage if they wish. The Kodiaks sport cages around their propellers called “prop guards” to protect any belugas who might get too close. While ecotourism encounters with these beautiful animals raise awareness about sea wildlife, it’s crucial to carry out these tours in a way that respects and protects belugas.
Discovering Manitoba as a maritime province
Living in the southern part of Manitoba, we often describe it as a prairie province. Because of its remoteness, we completely ignore Manitoba’s coastline along Hudson Bay, which connects to the Atlantic and Arctic oceans. Our trip to Churchill rectified that Winnipeg-centric perspective. We live in a prairie and maritime province. What a vast and remarkable region!
Covid-19 travel restrictions inspired our summer visit to Churchill, and it turned out to be one of a few of the silver linings we’ve experienced living through this pandemic. We’ve returned with a greater appreciation for our province’s beautiful majesty, along with the belugas and bears that inhabit it.
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