The New York Times named Puerto Rico number one on its Places to Go list for 2019. We had planned to visit this bustling Caribbean Island before seeing the list, but it certainly reinforced our vacation plans for this year. So, is Puerto Rico all that? Is it a tourist dream or still struggling to overcome the damage Hurricane Maria left behind? We loved it, and if you’re reading this, we hope you’ll seriously consider a visit. If you do, here are some ideas for what to do, see, and experience.
General Impressions
Other than Cuba several years ago, we have not travelled to the Caribbean. However, compared with other hot destinations we’ve been to (Belize, Panama, Costa Rica, Mexico), Puerto Rico is no slouch. One can easily fill a week or more split between the urban experience of San Juan and hanging out on a beach or exploring its other gorgeous natural areas.
From the perspective of a tourist visiting the usual sites, evidence of Hurricane Maria is minimal. There is definitely restorative construction underway, but it’s not overwhelming. As the New York Times pointed out in its feature, Puerto Ricans continue to suffer the effects of the natural disaster, but the island is eager and ready to make tourists feel welcome and comfortable. We deliberately chose Puerto Rico as our vacation destination this year to make a small gesture towards its recovery.
Where to stay in Puerto Rico
We debated whether to stay in the city of San Juan or at the nearby highly rated Isla Verde Beach area. We chose an Airbnb in the Carolina neighbourhood. It was a five-minute walk to the beach, and about a 10-15-minute Uber ride to Old San Juan.
A note about Uber in Puerto Rico – it’s a relatively inexpensive, easy way to get around. The taxi industry has a monopoly on transportation from the airport, but that was the only taxi we took. From the airport to our Airbnb, the fare was $24. On our departure home via the airport (about a 6-minute drive), the Uber ride was $4. Yeah, something’s not right about that—one fare appears exorbitant, other too low.
Is it safe?
Security-wise, Carolina and San Juan felt safe. Mind you, we did not stay out past around 11 p.m. and generally stayed in more popular areas. There is a visible police presence on the streets of Old San Juan, but it’s not at a level where you are wondering why there are so many police around (which ironically often leaves you feeling less safe).
What to see, do, and experience in Puerto Rico
Walk the Shoreline and Swim at Isle Verde Beach
Feel the sand and surf in your toes as you stroll Isle Verde Beach. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot a sand crab or two (I love how they walk sideways). The water is warm, and the sun is hot. The area is busy on the weekend when locals pack provisions and spend the whole day. Our favourite visiting time was from between 10 a.m. – noon. Before the sun’s rays became too intense and the tourists from the big hotels lining the shoreline started coming to life.
Go Snorkeling and See a Sea Turtle
We have gone snorkelling a few times, but still consider ourselves beginners. Not really knowing where to go, we went on a guided snorkelling tour with Try Snorkeling via Viator. The one we chose was about two-hours long, which was the perfect amount of time. Our big highlight was swimming alongside a few sea turtles. Cute little guys!
Amble Along the Streets of Old San Juan
If you’re eager to stock your Instagram feed with eye-catching images, Old San Juan is your ideal destination. Blue-tinged cobblestone streets wind around colourful Spanish Colonial buildings making it easy to walk for hours poking around to spot all the interesting details. It’s got a tourist vibe, but it’s charming. Note that San Juan hosts about 500 cruise ships and 2 million passengers on shore excursions annually. It’s not a large city, so you definitely experience the influx of people if you happen to be in town when a cruise disembarks.
Visit San Juan’s Fortifications
You can’t miss the two massive fortifications, which were designed beginning in the 16th century to protect San Juan from attack. Castillo San Felipe del Morro and Castillo San Cristóbal are about a half hour walk from each other. Both are spectacular, offering sweeping views of the ocean and Old San Juan. Be prepared—both sites are super windy (watch your hat and your skirt)! The forts outline the early military and colonial history of the island, but even if you’re not into that, they’re worth a visit just to experience their sheer scale and architecture. Note when you buy a ticket ($5), it’s good for two days at both sites.
Sample Puerto Rican Rum on a Cocktail Tour
We went on two Airbnb Experience tours on this trip. The first was the delicious Rum Runners Craft Cocktail Experience. Our tour guide mixed a bit of Puerto Rico’s rum history with backstories of the bars we visited. The first stop, Carli’s Fine Bistro & Piano, is owned by Carli Munoz, who used to tour with The Beach Boys. Apparently, the jazz musician makes an appearance at the piano regularly.
Other stops included Marilyn’s Place, which is decked out in Marilyn Munroe memorabilia and La Factoria—a dark, ultra-hip bar with several doors leading to different rooms each with their own vibe and ambiance. The rum punch at Marilyn’s was too sweet for my taste, but the other craft cocktails were delish. We definitely would not have stumbled onto these places without the tour, and they were all interesting.
Museo De Las Americas
I regret not spending more time in this museum, which is housed in a 1800s-era army barracks. We decided to go on the spur of the moment during a spot of rain while we were walking Old San Juan. It was late afternoon, and we were feeling tired from a day of touring, so didn’t stay as long as we should have. The artwork and displays introduce visitors to the history and culture of the Americas up to the present day. The large-scale and colourful art engages the moment you walk in. If you go, give yourself a couple of hours to enjoy it.
Eat Local Cuisine
Steve and I are not foodies. We like to eat, but we will not generally go out of our way to find the “best” restaurants and out-of-the-way places. If you’re into that, click on over to The Dining Traveler blog where Jessica van Dop DeJesus (who grew up in Puerto Rico) will give you the goods on where best to eat.
Mofongo
Having said that, we ate terrific food in Puerto Rico. Our favourite spots were both in Old San Juan and included Bari Handcrafted Pizza, which served up a very good pie, but is also where we tried the Puerto Rican dish mofongo. It’s composed of fried plantains that are mashed into a mound. You can get the dish with a variety of toppings. Get a seat on the hidden backend patio, add a lime margarita and you’ll be a happy diner.
Ceviche at Princesa Gastropub
The other place we loved was Princesa Gastropub, which features live jazz while you dine in its nature-inspired setting. We had delicious craft cocktails and the ceviche we ordered as an appetizer was also quite good. There are several local dishes on the menu too. There’s a cool rum bar on the patio of the property, which we didn’t try, but looked fun.
The last night of our trip we headed to Lote 23, which is a delightful upscale dining park in the Santurce neighbourhood of San Juan featuring several food trucks. Go hungry because there are a lot of amazing choices from pork sandwiches, pizza, fried chicken, burgers, craft cocktails and more.
Soak up the Vibes at La Placita de Santurce
One of our Uber drivers recommended we check out La Placita de Santurce, which he described as a block party under umbrellas. That sums it up. It’s a one-block stretch lined with several bars. There are tables and chairs set up on the road and the night we went there was a duo singing Latin tunes in the street. Some folks were dancing. La Placita offers stellar people watching. There is no way to pin the demographic of those who hang out here – young, old, tattooed bikers, groups of young women out on the town, retirees sipping beer and chatting. It’s all there!
Get Out of Town
Yes, Puerto Rico is a relatively small island, but it offers a diversity of landscapes. We are fans of active travel, and so when I found the Body Rafting & Caving Experience on the Airbnb site, I knew we should try it.
The tour is designed by nature scientist, Mimi Ortiz and staffed by a crew of experienced interpreters. From San Juan, the tour transported us to the Esperanza area where we arrived at a private cottage surrounded by the lush rainforest. The hike ventures down to the Tanamá river and cave system.
Although I wouldn’t classify this adventure as exceptionally strenuous, you do need to be in good physical condition. Portions of the trail down involve some careful hiking and being attached to cables to ensure safety. Long sleeves, leggings, and shoes with an aggressive tread are important for grip, protection from scrapes and for warmth when you are immersed in the river. The tour provides other protective gear (helmets, knee pads, and life vest).
We loved this tour! Our guide Kelly was knowledgeable, attentive, and enthusiastic. It felt like a tonic to be immersed in nature—listening to the birds and the rush of water from the constantly moving river. The body rafting portion of the tour (Steve and I joking referred to it as “aka floating”) was fun and you moved pretty swiftly through some spots.
There are loads of tours and adventures to be had in Puerto Rico including zip lining, caving, kayaking, parasailing, snorkelling. With so many options, it’s easy to get away from it all for a nature adventure. Puerto Rico offers a terrific mix of urban, surf, and forest experiences.
If you enjoyed this post, why not subscribe to Tag Along Travel? Twice a month, you’ll receive an email with links to recent posts.
PIN IT
Puerto Rico has been high on my list of places to visit for a few years now. It’s even more so after reading your post. Perhaps I can make it part of next year’s winter plans.
I think you’d really like it, Donna. Old San Juan reminds me a bit of Panama City — maybe a bit more cosmopolitan.