There’s something decadent about travelling to an iconic destination in the off season. Unburdened by hordes of other tourists, moving about to popular sights is relatively painless. There are no line-ups and no obstructed views. When Steve had work travel to the Netherlands for a few days in January, we decided to tack on a side trip. The beauty of Europe’s geographically close composition is that the possible destinations for such a getaway are numerous. We chose Venice.
We loved our trip to Italy a few years ago when we visited Rome, Florence, and the Puglia region. Venice never made it into our itinerary because even though we were travelling in early June, we feared Venice would be overcrowded. We figured we’d get there someday. Turns out, that day was near the end of January.
To be clear, there are still a lot of Venice tourists in January
You won’t mistake Venice for some sleepy little town if you go in the winter months. There are tourists–large groups snaking their way through the narrow streets following the tour guide with the flag on a pole. There are couples (many couples) taking selfies on the Rialto bridge, and a few families wrangling young ones intent on terrorizing the pigeons in St. Mark’s Square. But, it’s manageable.
So, What to do in Venice in January
Dress Warmly
January temperatures in Venice are in the range of 6-9 degrees Celsius during the day and hover around zero at night. Being surrounded by water also makes it a damp-cold, which always feels a bit icier. It rained on and off on just the last day of our four-day trip, which we considered lucky. Pack layers and a thick sweater or two. I would have been happy wearing the down parka I wear at home, but I didn’t want to lug that around. I was glad that I packed an umbrella and gloves. A knitted hat (we call them toques in Canada) would have been welcome.
Get Lost
Many people told us to do this (for real, not figuratively). This is good advice for a few reasons. One, it’s very easy to do in Venice because of the serpentine layout of the roads and canals—why fight it? Second, no one’s really ever lost in Venice because it’s an island—there’s only so far you can go. Third, there are so many interesting nooks, crannies, shops, and curiosities, that getting lost is the best way to discover them.
Trade gelato for glühwein
I LOVE gelato. The last time we were in Italy, Steve and I indulged once or more a day in its sweet deliciousness. On this trip, I just couldn’t do it. It seemed out of sync with the weather and the mood of Venice in January.
Fortunately, we found a replacement! The tummy-warming, clove-scented mulled wine we fell in love with in Germany (called glühwein) seems to have taken over Venice. Many streetside cafes sold it in take-away cups making strolling the streets a warmer, more pleasant experience.
Immerse yourself in the classics
It’s January, after a day of strolling about outside, you’re going to want to do indoor activities in the evening. It’s Italy, the birthplace of some of the world’s most-loved classical music.
If you’ve never gone to the opera, think you hate opera, don’t understand opera – you need to go to an opera at Musica a Palazzo. We saw Verdi’s La Traviata, and between the memorable music and the setting, it was magical. The venue is an old Venetian palace, Barbarigo Minotto, which overlooks the Grand Canal. It’s all very Baroque.
The audience is small (about 60 people) and it, along with the performers, moves to a different room for each of the three acts. Being close to the singers and musicians makes it a very intimate experience.
At intermission, a glass of prosecco (or juice) awaits you in a room with windows looking onto the canal.
Steve and I enjoy opera, but if you aren’t sure that you do, this experience is a perfect introduction. I dare you not to love it.
Don’t stop at the opera. Take in a performance by Interpreti Veneziani at one of Venice’s historic churches.
Your best bet – Vivaldi’s Four Seasons at the former San Vidal church. It’s a beautiful concert venue that was built in 1084. You’ll love the performance, and if you’re of a certain age and remember the movie Kramer vs. Kramer, you’ll recognize the music.
Visit St. Mark’s Square and the Dorge’s Palace
These are the iconic Venice sights and I suspect enjoying them is likely far easier in January than in July.
We downloaded the Rick Steves audio tour of St. Mark’s Square to our iPhones, which runs about 45 minutes and gives an engaging overview of the architecture and history.
We bought tickets to the Dorge’s Palace and adjacent prison. Steve loves all things medieval. Me, not so much. The palace is stunning, for sure, and if you love huge-scale art, this is your palace.
The colder weather certainly gave me an appreciation for the horrible conditions of the prison palace back in the day.
Go for a run
Venice is not designed for running. But, hey, it’s January, so it’s actually possible to make your way through the narrow streets, over bridges, and along the Riva – if you go early in the day.
Just know that you will have to stop due to a glut of people ambling along every now and again. Take your patience with you and enjoy the fresh air. This is also excellent compensation for the exceptional Venetian food you’ve been enjoying along the way.
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